This is the 39 Chevy Sedan Delivery.

After we installed the channels and sweeps, we fit a piece of cardboard to use as a templet. The next step is to make better templets out of luan plywood so we can check the operation.

Move the mouse over the pic to see a shot from the front.

We fabbed a panel out of 18ga stainless so that we could mount the overhead console to the ceiling.

We decided to use these great switches from Watson's Streetworks that will power the door windows and cowl vent.

Please take note that these switches are only rated for 5amps so you will need to wire relays. Check the bottom of this page for a link to the wiring diagram.

Here is a shot of the relays mounted and ready to be wired!

Move the mouse over the pic to see the relays installed.

We installed the door wire looms to carry the wiring for the window motors. We also added switches in the A-pillar to turn the front interior lights on when a door is opened.

We added a grounding block so we could ensure our grounds are good for the circuits that we are adding.

We installed had ample room to install the front speakers in the kick panels.

Move the mouse over the pic to see the speaker installed.

The cowl vent motor had a single micro switch installed to limit the rotation when closing, however there were no limits during the opening of the vent. We installed a second switch to limit in both directions.

Our friends at J&B Microfinish from Pontiac, Il milled the gauge cluster and under dash panel for us. They do beautiful work and they are a pleasure to work with. Click on their name to go to their website.

Move the mouse over the pic to see another view.

J&B Microfinish sent us a raw piece of aluminum for us to custom fit the underside of the dash. We first fabricated a piece of luan as a templete and transferred to the aluminum panel. We fitted to the contour of the dash, but were not able to bend since we would still need to milling to be done. J&B cut the vent holes and the steering column clearance in addition to the nice ball milling and polishing.

We removed the switches from the original under dash Heat/AC panel. Once the aluminum panel was sent back to us from J&B, we perminately installed the panel and transferred the labels and switches to the new under dash panel.

Keep checking for updates!

Looking at the driver door, you can see that we need to take the curve out of the inner and outer door skin.

With the straight rod, you can see the curve better.

I marked the door where the relief cuts should be made. Once the cuts are made, I had to flex the door just beyond straight. Once the cuts are welded, and cooled, the door skin will flex back some.

Here is the outer skin with the straight edge . . . looks pretty good! Now it is time for the inner skin.

The passanger door had a layer of filler that lead me to believe that this door would need more attention.

There is damage where the original wing window post was and I found that the door skin at this point was paper thin . . . this needs to be corrected.

I cut out the bad sheet metal to remove the damaged metal.

I fabbed a piece of sheet metal that will be used as a backer for the patch. This backer is longer and extends at least 1/4" beyond the hole on both sides.

The filler is cut slightly smaller so that we can weld through the gap to attach the backer to the patch when welded.

Here is the finished patch after welding and grinding.